Huangshan

Submitted by qperceval on Fri, 06/01/2012 - 04:40

Au programme aujourd'hui, randonnée ! Pour cela, direction Huangshan, la Montagne Jaune, montagne mythique pour ses pics de granite perçant la brume et ses splendides paysages. Elle doit son nom au poète Li Po (VIIIème siècle), mais il ne faut pas chercher le pourquoi du comment, ce n’était clairement pas jaune ^^.

On commence par le traditionnel train couchette du vendredi soir. Contrairement à la dernière fois (où on avait des pseudos compartiments), là c'était un wagon = 1 dortoir, et le train s'arrêtait toutes les deux heures dans une gare, donc bonjour le dodo. Mais finalement, en dormant par intermittence on a quand même réussi à faire une bonne nuit.

On est donc arrivé à Huangshan City à 9h et une magnifique pluie était là pour nous accueillir. Cool... Pas le temps d'en profiter, deux baozis et hop dans le minibus direction la montagne, 100km plus loin. Arrivée à Tangkou, changement de bus (ça nous a coûté plus cher de faire les trois derniers kilomètres que les 100 premiers), attente, marche, achats des tickets, et finalement à 12h nous étions face aux premières marches du mont sacré, strictement seuls (le téléphérique avait décidément trop de succès). Il ne pleuvait plus, mais on n'était pas loin des nuages.
Les 1h40 de montée qui ont suivi (6,5km, 800m de dénivelé) se sont déroulés dans la brume, dans une ambiance assez fantasmagorique qui faisait vraiment aventure. Classe.
Par contre on n'a jamais réussi à passer au-dessus, donc une fois en haut on ne voyait toujours rien. Moins classe. Et après une demi-heure de pause pique-nique, on avait même carrément froid ! Du coup on a quand même pas mal marché pour ne pas voir les centres d'intérêts (à savoir les paysages), ce qui était un peu frustrant. Côté étonnement, on a appris à différencier les coréens des chinois (les premiers étant très bien équipés en mode North Face et les seconds en tenue de tous les jours), on a essayé de trouver une logique dans les différentes cartes de la montagne à notre disposition (elles étaient toutes différentes et aucune n'était exacte), et on a pu apprécier l'effort fait pour intégrer la sécurité des voies au paysages (rambardes en bitume imitation bois qui rendaient plutôt pas mal, contrairement aux hôtels installés au sommet).

Le soir arrivant, on s'est finalement posé dans un restaurant près du Bright Top, pic d'où on pourrait profiter du lever de soleil le lendemain. On a pu y manger un repas complet qui tenait la route pour 55 yuans, ce qui était très correct vu les prix pratiqués sur la montagne (prix justifiés par le fait que tous les aliments sont montés à pied par des porteurs pouvant/devant soulever jusqu'à 75kg chacun !). Pour la nuit, on a essayé de poser notre tente dans un endroit random pour éviter d’avoir à payer quoi que ce soit, mais la police nous a trouvé en 10 minutes et nous a forcés à aller nous installer dans le camping. Au final on a rien payé, mais on a eu un peu de mal à planter nos piquets de tente vu qu’ils nous avaient posé sur du bitume -_-‘.

Le lendemain, mission levé de soleil ! Ledit monsieur étant annoncé à 5h07, on s’est dit qu’en se levant à 4h on aurait le temps de plier la tente et d’arriver au sommet avant tout le monde. Échec : les chinois du camping se sont tous levés à 3h30, et quand on est arrivé au sommet à 4h30, il était déjà blindé de monde, et il a fallu se battre pour avoir un micro-spot pour prendre une photo. Au final, le lever de soleil n’était pas super impressionnant, mais ce qui l’était vraiment c’était l’évolution de la luminosité sur les 4 heures qui ont suivi (et l’absence complète de nuages !) qui rendaient les paysages vraiment magnifiques. On a du coup pu apercevoir par moment la mer de nuages qui étaient plutôt grandiose.

Comme les jambes avaient l’air de tenir le coup, on est parti en mode super-randonneur vers le canyon de l’ouest, boucle de 11km qui commençait par 400m de descente (en dénivelé bien sur ^^). Mais une fois tout en bas, ils nous ont fait une bonne blague : la route était coupée. Il a donc fallut remonter par où on était venu, et ça a fait très mal. Du coup, on a décidé de retourner voir ce qu’on n’avait pas vu la veille (oui on était motivés ^^) avant de rejoindre l’autre côté du canyon par un autre chemin. Et ça valait vraiment le coup ! À noter le Begin-to-Believe Peak, pic tellement magique que quand on l’a vu on commence à croire (cf. photos). On a aussi croisé des personnes qui faisaient l’ascension en chaise à porteur, et un nombre assez grand de groupes dirigés par mégaphones (on se serait cru dans les jardins du Lion à Suzhou -_-‘).

Sur le retour (vers 12h), on a eu la surprise d’être pris dans les embouteillages en contrebas du Pic de Lotus (point culminant des montagnes, 1864m) sur des chemins absolument pas dimensionnés pour le nombre de touristes les empruntant, et ce sur plus d’1km ! Par contre comme d’habitude, une fois qu’on a pris l’embranchement qui passait par le sommet du pic, on a été plus tranquille ^^. Une fois en haut, on a pu dérouler sereinement la descente (7.5km, 1000m de dénivelé) et arriver à la gare de Tangkou à 16h, soit une heure avant le départ de notre bus, qui nous a ramené à Shanghai en 6h.

Au bilan encore un week-end magique avec plus de 45km de rando au compteur (15 le samedi et 30 le dimanche) et près de 2000 mètres de dénivelé positif (et autant en négatif ^^) qui resteront gravés dans nos mémoires.

Profitez bien des photos, elles sont magnifiques, et merci à Léo qui a fait jouer son réflex numérique sur une trentaine d'entre elles :)

A plus !

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